I should start by saying that I love places that are just named by their address. I group it with having a legible signature and indicating properly when driving. It’s useful and true to reality.

And I love this restaurant. I went for lunch with a friend on a Saturday and booked a table, which was wise as they were full. There are many gorgeous looking mains on the menu, like cassoulet with duck and fish pie, but we ordered all the sides to share.

The chips are heavenly. Actually the nicest ever. They’ve got their skins on but are quite slim, and a perfect texture. Maldon sea salt is served in a little bowl alongside delicious aioli. Proper bread and proper butter are always welcome, and the salads were generous and well dressed.

The waiters are charming and efficient. The decor is just my sort of thing: great taste but totally functional, beautiful pieces but not ostentatious in the least. Ingredients proudly double up as ornaments on the shelves.

And the people of Shrewsbury seem to share my views. If you want to go, remember to book!